Weaving interlaces yarns at right angles; knitting loops them together. The structure chosen here shapes how a fabric feels, drapes, breathes and wears, and it’s what most of the familiar fabric names actually describe.
Warp & Weft
The two directions of every woven fabric. Warp threads run the length of the cloth, held under tension on the loom; weft threads are woven across them, over and under, selvedge to selvedge. Every weave pattern, percale's one over one, sateen's four over one, is a description of how weft passes warp. Thread count adds the two directions together, which is why the counting method matters.
Related terms Cotton Sateen Cotton Percale Thread Count Jacquard
Cotton Percale
A plain weave, one thread over, one thread under, that produces a crisp, matte fabric with a cool, fresh feel often described as hotel sheet sharp. Percale typically sits between 200 and 300 thread count; its balanced structure means a lower count than sateen is correct, not a compromise. Neither weave is better than the other: percale suits sleepers who like their bedding crisp and cool, sateen those who prefer a smoother, more enveloping feel.
See: Sateen vs Percale Explained
Related terms Cotton Sateen Thread Count
Cotton Sateen
A weave, not a fibre. In sateen, each thread floats over four threads before passing under one, so more thread sits on the surface of the fabric, a smooth hand, a gentle lustre and a fluid drape, softer against the skin than percale while remaining breathable natural cotton. At Flaxfield Linen we favour long staple cotton sateen for exactly this balance. Sateen is often confused with satin, which usually refers to silk or synthetic fabric with a high gloss, slippery finish; cotton sateen has a soft lustre, not a shine.
See: Sateen vs Percale Explained
Related terms Cotton Percale Satin Stitch Warp & Weft
Jacquard
A weaving method in which the loom controls threads individually, so the pattern is created in the structure of the fabric itself rather than printed onto its surface. A jacquard design is part of the cloth, visible on both faces, often in reverse, and because it isn’t applied to the fabric, it typically keeps its definition through years of use and laundering. On towels, jacquard borders and motifs are woven into the pile, which is how they hold their clarity wash after wash.
Related terms Loop Construction Yarn Dyed Warp & Weft
Loop Construction (Terry)
The pile construction that gives a towel its body and absorbency. In terry weaving, extra warp yarn is woven into loops standing above the base cloth; each loop adds surface area, and surface area is what drinks water. Loop height and density together determine how a towel performs, taller, denser loops absorb more and feel plusher, while shorter loops dry faster and feel lighter. GSM gives the summary number, but loop construction is what's behind it.
Related terms GSM Jacquard Bamboo
Moss Stitch
A knit structure, not a weave, a knitting stitch that alternates knit and purl to produce a dense, pebbled, evenly textured surface. On blankets and throws, moss stitch gives a fabric with real tactile presence: it lies flat, doesn’t curl at the edges, and looks the same on both sides, which matters for a piece that gets folded, draped and turned in daily use.
See: Comforters, Throws & Blankets
Related terms Blanket Bouclé
Thread Count
The number of threads woven into a set area of fabric, per square inch internationally, per 10 cm² in Australia and New Zealand. It measures the density of the weave, not its quality. Counted correctly, with each yarn counted once regardless of ply, most high quality cotton bedding sits between 300 and 600; counts far above that are usually a sign of multi ply counting rather than superior fabric. Thread count is best considered alongside fibre quality, yarn construction and weave, rather than in isolation.
See: Thread Count Explained
Related terms Ply Staple Length Warp & Weft
GSM
Grams per square metre, the weight of a fabric, and the measure used where thread count doesn’t apply: towels, blankets, throws and linen. A higher GSM means a denser, heavier, generally more absorbent or warmer fabric; a lower GSM means lighter and quicker drying. GSM and thread count measure different things entirely, one is weight, the other weave density, so the two numbers can’t be compared against each other.
Related terms Thread Count Loop Construction Blanket